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Entries in local food week (5)

12:38PM

Grilled Cheese Throwdown: the Grilled Macaroni & Cheese Sandwich a.k.a. "The Farmer's Daughter" (Recipe & Gallery)

I was emailed by Laura from Wild Goose Creative five days ago. She said that as a participant in the 2011 BaconCamp, they thought I (along with the others in the email no doubt) would be interested in participating the Grilled Cheese Throwdown qualifier.

Local Matters will be launching its own events lineup for Local Food Week (9/30 - 10/6) here in Columbus on Saturday October 1 with the Grilled Cheese Throwdown. Totally worth the five dollar ticket price; it should be great.

So, in the five days since the email, what have I come up with? First there was the Beer-battered double-fried monster, which would have just been a good mix sans deep-frying. I liked it, but the wow factor was in the ingredients, and I could get wow out of execution as well, but wanted something inventive. Second was Grilled Cheese a la French Tiramisu. Basically I wanted to make a savory play on the ladyfingers with a french toast style egg-wash and substitute the mascarpone for brie and butter  cheese. But seriously, 80 ladyfingers sandwiches? Not likely. The question became one of wow and mass production. And the solution?

The Grilled Macaroni & Cheese Sandwich. For short, I call it...

The Farmer's Daughter

Here's a link to the whole gallery so you can get a visual overview.

Here's how you make it.

Start with some classic macaroni and cheese.

We will be making a large batch for this for a few reasons. Mac 'n Cheese is great to freeze, we need to have multiple samples for polishing technique, and (if we qualify) we will need to prep 80-100 servings. For purposes of this example We are making two 9x13 casserole dishes of MnC.

 

Begin by starting enough water to boil 3 pounds of ditalini (or some other small, regularly shaped pasta). Add the li'l tubes when boiling, bring to al dente. Move forward with making a bechamel, 3/4c flour to butter for your roux, then scald in 2c half & half, and then 1 1/2 cup milk. Next we add 8 ounces each of cheddar and colby-jack. While gradually stirring in the cheese, bit by bit, sautee onion until soft and sticky, add one large, minced poblano pepper and 5-6 cloves minced garlic. 

So  now you've got some 2 1/2 - 3 quarts of mornay (roux based bechamel with cheese melted in it) to mix with your 3 pounds of ditalini. Toss it up real nice and even, then pour out into 2 9x13 casserole dishes (ceramic/pyrex) and bake at 350'f for about 30-45 minutes or until the pasta has absorbed most of the liquid. Mind that you don't want the past to get crispy (a little tough is okay, but crisp lips sink ships), so stir it every so often if it starts browning or looking too dry.

This MNC will serve as the base for your 'flatbread' or "flats".

Now I like to think, and may have been told this once, that it is good to know your ingredients. It makes sense, and it is ultimately the responsible thing to do. So I strongly urge you at this point to site down and have a nice bowl of the MNC. You could also do so prior to baking (it would be a bit saucier, but the texture wouldn't be as amazing).

To begin making a flat, spray the inside of a 9", round springform pan with coconut oil then dust lightly with flour (keeps from sticking and browns gently). Preheat oven to 425'f. Using approximately room temperature MNC, measure out 8/3 c (2 2/3) in 1/3 - 1/2 c increments and pour into pan. (You want the flour on the bottom to remain even, so try to minimize pushing them around on that surface.) Bake for 15 minutes.

Release but don't remove springform and allow to cool for a few minutes until pan edges are not searing to the touch. Re-tighten before next step.

Prepare two egg washes. The "Group" wash will be of a larger quantity (depending on how many flats you will be making), the ratio being 1 egg to 1 Tbsp water. The "Solo" wash will be just 1 egg frothed up with 1 Tbsp water (you will need one of these for each flat you do). Mix the solo wash in a pourable container. 

I chose to take a slightly Provençale approach to flavoring, as it is a mornay and, effectively, a scrappy quiche blend. Anyway, I sprinkled my herbs (parsley, tarragon, rosemary) on top at this point; if you do herbs for yours, now is the time so the wash can distribute them. 

Pour solo wash around middle and edge rings of flat first, center ring last. Bake at 425'f another 15 minutes.

 

Remove and unsnap your pan's corset. Put a cutting board (gently) over top and flip the flat onto the cutting board so the bottom "crust" is butt up.  At this point, your flat is done and should have a light brown but sturdy crust. There will be white and yellowish parts if the solo egg wash had some unmixed parts, no biggie. It should have an edge like this;

Reach for the group wash and your brush, whip it up a bit, then apply generously to that toasty bum. Dust a flour breading (with garlic, onion powder, salt, and black pepper) on top, then sprinkle some corn meal last to finish her off.

Heat some canola oil in your cast iron skillet to medium/medium-high, once there pour out extra oil. Flip skillet over cutting board with flat in middle, flip cutting board over and return skillet to heat.

moneyGrab your cheese; I chose a mix of 3 ounces each of sliced gouda and havarti to give it a mild tang, and creamy melt. Put one cheese each on one half and the other on the opposite (you are going to fold in half along the cheese meridian), then top one side with thinly sliced tomatoes. Around the rim, pour or spray enough water (or tomato juices if there is some) to steam-melt the cheese and quickly cover with a tight fitting lid. You may want to give a clean perforation to the cheese meridian with your spatula at this point. Reduce heat to medium.

Flip the flat over once (a) the cheese is melted and (b) sliding a spatula underneath (1) comes out clean and (2) the bottom has browned (or almost gotten there) to a nice gold. If the top side looks good flip over to ensure the other side is nice and golden. The lower and slower you go with it the crispier the bottom can get before burning.

Anyway, remove from pan, trim as necessary. I have serve the half flat in halves, quarters, and fifths and the sandwich holds up in each of the portions so feel free to rely on its structural integrity.

The qualifier was yesterday for the Grilled Cheese Throwdown. I was actually 90% packed when the alarm went off to start, and I had had time to bake a third flat in anticipating any kind of mishap and to be able to select the best ones to cook (of which the third I made was the best, naturally). I don't know yet how I did, but I did get a good nod on novelty. I made two flats' worth of sandwiches with a nice plating along thinly sliced tomatoes. and had plenty of leftover flat and sandwiches to share with the competitors.

Last night I made the third flat for dinner (I split it with my roommate) using Guggisberg's Farmer's cheese. It went well with the Roastier Tomato Eggplant Soup I made the other day, this time I put a slice of the Farmer's cheese on top (not vegan, like the grilled cheese).

image not enlarged for texture, i just got real close. but it's off the richter scaleThe Farmer's Daughter has a home-y, comfortable feel to it. It's not as bizarre as it sounds (grilled cheese on flat bread made out of macaroni and cheese). It is all comfort food; grilled cheese, mac and cheese, and quiche (if you don't recognize quiche as comfort food you've never had a fresh warm slice for breakfast in an Ohio winter). The ingredients have a wholesome, relaxing taste and it's a lot of fun to enjoy. For science, I recommend you try it.

Before I get into future iterations, I need to thank some people; Cameron first for incubating this, Carolyn for pushing the baking idea (I had already done it but the reinforment helps), my cousin Bill for helping with the skillet portion, Maureen for the cement, and Kate for the thickness. Each one of these people pushed me over the obstacles I was at in their own way.

Future iterations:

  • Heuvos Mornayros (yeah you know me) - Ramp up the peppers in the MNC (i.e. pureed anchos in adobo in mornay); chili powder/paste, oregano, cumin sprinkle; fried chorizo; swap to a smoked cheese with chipotles
  • Grilled Lorraine - mostly the same but swap to a sharper cheese and add ham
  • Grilled Cheese Cube - Figure out how to make it into a cube, brown, slice on a bias, and then pour in fondue; also make it inside out (i.e. inject inside with cheese then dip in cheese)

work papers, for Science!Well that's enough grilled cheese for this week. Very exciting stuff I must say. Spawned two stackexchange questions and half a dozen posts. I would not necessarily recommend you go make the investment in making the Holy Hog's Hell chili unless you need to trigger an epic episode, or are otherwise buying a ticket for a vision quest. This however, is a recipe that's economical (you're paying it forward cooking this much MNC in bulk, and only 2 2/3 cups is needed for the Farmer so you can freeze the rest). This is a recipe you should make in preparation for hibernating.

Note: This recipe contains no outgoing source links except by doubling back to the Betty Crocker one for mornay, which is actually just a write-up I refer to occasionally. This one, aside from Cameron mentioning grilled cheese and macaroni & cheese in the same sentence, has no pre-existing structure. If you know of a place that has anything like this let me know.

Also, you should reproduce this recipe for science. It is actually simpler than you think, but it combines a plurality of beginner-level techniques that are each worth learning for their own sake (roux, mornay, temp tweaking, and egg wash / breading for sauteeing in zero oil).

3:08PM

Grilled Cheese Throwdown: Mac and Cheese Cake

So I'm building 'bread' for a grilled cheese sandwich using macaroni (ditalini, actually) and cheese (mornay using 1/2s  cheddar, colby-jack, using roux). I am making this bread using a springform pan, so it will also be a 'cake', if you will. So anyway, I need to keep the 'cake' from browning too much, stay moist, not get super crunchy, and turn into a solid, cohesive whole.

I have two primary forks from my first test.

Test #1: 325'f @ 45min

  • browned slightly on bottom and sides after 45 minutes; too loose, not browned 
  • raised temp to 425'f applied egg wash to top and edges baked for fifteen; too loose, spotted brown (bottom unknown)
  • applied egg wash to spots, around edges again, baked for fifteen more; less, but still too loose, bottom far too crunchy

Final for Test #1: bottom too browned, too looseMoving Forward

Fork #1: Adjusting temp:time

  • sub fork #2.1.a: lower, slower
  • sub fork #2.1.b: higher, faster

Fork #2: Adding more mornay using a corn starch slurry prior to baking

  • sub fork #2.2.a: mixing corn starch slurry mornay  with mac 'n cheese
  • sub fork #2.2.b: mixing just bechamel and corn starch slurry with mac 'n cheese
11:42AM

The Mornay After, and Grilled Tiramisu Sandwiches

So the backbone of the recipe is ready to go.

I have two 9x13" casserole dishes full of mac and cheese. i rode home with about twenty pounds of grilled cheese groceries strapped to my back, mostly for the mac and cheese recipe

almost 4 quarts of the mornay  finished, baked; crunchy chewy cheesy

 

I am pleased with the outcome. I took three pounds of ditalini, mixed with three quarts of a cheddar/colby-jack mornay sauce, threw in the oven for 33 minutes @ 333'F. They came out good.

The glass dish was a bit more moist and (since I need a more spongy form for browning after) I put it mack in the oven a bit longer.

Now the limb I'm going out on is that the crispy, crunchy bits you get with oven backed mnc will work. As I mixed up the content of the two casserole dishes I noticed they had some decent little bits, and I think they will fit well with the browned crust as long as the inside get's gooey and creamy.

I'm have two initial approaches I am going to try. The first involves freezing a cube of it, then cutting it into slices, compressing, butter/battering outside and browning in a skillet to reheat then filling the center with cheesy and steam melting. The second involves getting some kind of metal mold (like a 3-5" round cookie cutter with high 1"+ walls) on a cookie sheet, pouring in some of the mnc, baking at a high temp to firm it up and slightly crisp the outer walls, flipping once firm, then butter/battering outside and browning in a skillet.

  • The latter option sounds like less hassle, but also allows for more tweaking on the fly; filling to different heights, possibly butter/battering prior to baking to see if it helps the puck not be hard or helps it pre-brown. I assume I still need to incorporate the grilling process so I can't just bake them.

Next up tonight, baking lady fingers in sheets; trying to make triamisu a la savory French toast with Guggisberg's Farmer's Cheese, Brie, cocoa and espresso. Probably going to need to look up more savory spices/herbs for use in breakfast foods. My eyes light up thinking about it. Not because I know it will taste good; but because I have no idea what will happen.

8:22AM

Sketch of This Coming Sunday's Grilled Cheese Throw Down

honestly, i mean it . it's okay if you feel this way about how i cookSo I just got word I will be competing in the 1:10 - 1:30 time slot. I have two main options; go crazy or go home.

Actually, I'm trying to come up with a go subtle option rather than go home, but anyway here is the sketch of my Go Crazy Grilled Cheese:

  • Gruyere.
  • Thick Texas Toast.
  • [Raspberry]-Onion Kick-Starter Jam.
  • Anise Seeds. (Can I get those local?)
  • Beer Batter. (Some Columbus Brew with a good hop, flour, egg, garlic)
  • Fried Pancetta.

Do you see where I'm going with this? Deep fry that bitch and sear it in bacon grease until it has that nice clean edge! Is it possible? No idea.

10:34AM

Local Food Week & the next Cooking Competition: Grilled Cheese

I'm getting my time slot right now for a new cooking competition, held by Local Matters. This time around it's all about the grilled cheese in pre-celebration of Local Foods Week in the second annual "Grilled Cheese Throwdown!" 

Now, I definitely consider my competitive spirit a bit humbled in the face of the other two comps lately, but I am thrilled about this one and can't wait to put it out there and get fried.

Sign-up for the pre-qualifier is first come first serve and will be held this Sunday. The main event is October 1 at 3pm. From the site:

Grilled Cheese Throwdown in the Short North (4 – 7 pm)
$5 admission
Chefs will compete alongside talented amateurs for the title of “grilled cheese master” using local breads, cheeses and toppings.

The upcoming local foods week should be rad (the day after the throwdown will be a food cart drag race... oh... or actually just a rally but that's still cool) and I hope that everyone can get out to support it!

If I actually qualify for the throw-down I will need an assistant badly as it requires prepping 80-100 sandwiches in advance!