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Entries in pizza (11)

1:27PM

Hoping to do some skillet pies tonight

Maybe you wanted corned beef and you may have got it with some greenly poured watery domestic. You may have wanted Mega Millions tickets for free like every other person so you never have to cook again. Or maybe you're cruising for a new microwave on Craigslist because you want to nuke some crap food.

Well, I won't begrudge you those things. But if for Lent you wanted to make a little change, I'm trying to pull together a pubby, grubby Vegan For Lent menu.

I still have five of five pizzas to engineer and by Sunday (though I suppose you might say that it wouldn't count on Sunday, or perhaps even tomorrow, but I'm calling for being Vegan for Lent until Easter dinner). Like any feast day, we must feast. But it's also the start of Passover starting Friday night at sundown. What does that mean?

That entails we need to get the work done tonight! Shells a plenty ce soir. Let's get those five done'd for you. I hope none of you mind some pub grub and pie fusion. It is for all of our good and it will get me closer to lining up more bar food for your devout brains.

Bringing you a vegan Lent since Leap Day.

1:18PM

Kale & Sweet Potato Pizza

Well hello there aren't you a naughty little thing? So good to see you. I want to introduce you to some people. Okay?

So I am still using the Emeril deep dish dough recipe; it works well and can easily be loafed into bread. The results yield a flexible dough that rises nicely. This time I used semolina flour instead of corn meal (which allowed me to make corn bread out of the Necronomicon). I actually preferred the crunch of the corn meal in the dough, and may try a half and half of the corn meal and the semolina.

In a follow up, then to the Sarson Ka Saag pizza and the Vegan for Lent pledge (this is pizza recipe one of five), here is a next pizza recipe. This one is also pretty easy going and doesn't have any ingredients you can't get at a supermarket. It has more pan work than the others, but pretty good work flow for timing. The pizza itself is a nice savory sweet and salty pie.

Start about forty-five minutes into the dough rising. Chop up a large yellow onion, and get into caramelizing it. I like to use my cast iron skillet. The labor of love that is properly caramelizing an onion is largely balanced on dehydrating the onion while raising the temperature gradually to heat the sugars, catalyzing caramelization and maillard reactions.

There are no great shortcuts, adding water inhibits both, salt can help to dessicate the onion by drawing out the water through osmosis but still you must stir all the more frequently as there is less of a buffer to keep from burning the onions. Slicing thinly and small increases surface area for sugar to heat all the more directly. But both salt and slice only shorten the time and love minimally, so take the time to put care into those lovely onions rather than try too much to rush them. (I have found that if you need to go do something, you can toss them in the oven at 200'F to have them hold their temp without needing to stir for a bit.)

 

Once they are nice and caramelized you can toss on a bunch of chopped kale and turn up the heat to high. Douse with a hearty dose of either braggs aminos or tamari, add a quarter cup of water, stir, and cover for five minutes to steam the greens. Remove the lid and add a splash of balsamic and a half cup of red wine.

Remove the onions and the kale to cool off, allow the remaining liquid to reduce. Slurry 1 teaspoon of cornstarch in 1-3 teaspoons cold water (or better, you would use arrowroot or tapioca starch for acidic sauces like these).

Preheat the oven to 450'F. Start a second, small fry pan at medium heat to toast some spices (paprika, cumin, coriander, ancho powder); once toasted cover with a quarter cup of olive oil. Saute some finely minced garlic in the oil and spices then remove once softened and pour into a small bowl. Stir the slurry then whisk into the reducing wine sauce. Continue to reduce until it turns into a nice glaze. Pour off into a spouted measuring cup.

 

So the dough recipe yields two shells. I cut the risen loaf in half, tossed until round, punched until flattened out, tossed to round some more, then press into a greased pie pan (I used a 14" heavy aluminum pizza dish).

Brush the dough shell with the oil, spices, and garlic; chop and cover with parsley. Top with the onions and kale, then the roasted sweet potatoes. Sprinkle on some toasted sesame seeds (or fresh toasted walnuts if you have any). Sprinkle on daiya as you like, and then drizzle with the wine sauce reduction.

Now the option here is to either brick or not to brick the pizza. This recipe crisps up quite nicely in the aluminum pan. That said, if you are paranoid or utterly convinced nothing is as good as stone bricked pizza, you can pop a stone in while you pre-heat the oven.

A pizza brick will make it harder to heat the oven, and use up more gas. That said, it will also stabilize the temperature as it is a heat sink.

The brick will not necessarily yield a better crust for a thick crust, but for a thin crust it is almost obligatory.

Anyway, the way I test dough is to lift it in the pan and scrape the bottom with a metal spatula. When you can hear the dough's tooth at the tip, and feel it in your fingers, it works to brick it.

Bricking the pizza the entire time is another option, but I find it easier to go in a pan as it allows you to infuse the outside with fat and ensure a crispier, moist crust. I find a wholly stoned pizza to be drier, though even crispier to a crunch. Works well with corn meal dusted shell bottoms. Anyway, here are my results after about 10 minutes at 450'F, then 12 at 375'F.

My results betray that I burtnet the potatoes. They were over-roasted to begin, but the second baking killed them dead. I also over sauteed the garlic and had a few crispier bits. No big deal in either case, and not symptomatic of the recipe. This is a savory, sweet, & salty pizza that chews big and brings a smile to sweet and salty lips. I topped mine with a smidge of sriracha to give it added spice.

(Look at those air pockets!)


 

 

 

6:04PM

Vegan for Lent? The Adherent's Sinful Menu of Guiltitude

Ok. I want to be an advocate for Vegan for Lent. Do you like your Meatless Mondays? Are you Catholic? More Catholic-y than the average Catholic? Does not using contraception give you a boner? Ha! I'm getting a new oven Saturday, and I'm going to break it in quick.

Anyway, for any casual drive-by hits, I want to state up front that I want to help you achieve your goal of Vegan for Lent in the most Catholic of ways; by following the letter but not the spirit of the law!

SO: Up next-

  • Can't give up pizza now can you? Now it typically doesn't have fish on it, so it's not like it is a big deal for Catholics to give up as a meat alternative. But it has cheese so if you're vegan for lent it won't help. However, to get started I've already got some quick easy recipes posted.
    • My Promise to you: 5 more combinations made and posted. Different styles of crust. I'm not the hugest tapioca starch fan, so they will be better than just tomatoes and dough smothered in Daiya.
  • No chicken wings for watching the MLS openers? No buffalo sandwich bites for March Madness? That's insanity! I may not watch any sports on a regular basis, but I am Catholic'ly born and raised and I respect the rites and ritual significance of food and spectating. And I eat food.
    • My Promise to you: Bar food goodies, all vegan
  • BUT THIS IS ALL JUNK FOOD!
    • My Promise to you: I will post more of it, all vegan. It will probably all masquerade as junk food, but I don't really like to eat shitty-for-you food, and I don't really like to make it either. And you'll at least be avoiding bits o' animal cholestrols.
  • Praise jeebus.
    • My Promise to you: Catholic born and raised, but I'm 100% atheiagnostignostanti-theistic, and 100% all vegan. So 100% no proselytizing on behalf of religion, just doing some vegan outreach.

Got any particular things you'd like to see on the Adherent's Sinful Menu of Guiltitude? Did I miss a big sinful category? Let me know, I'm always down for pretending to clog an artery. Haha! At first I animal cholesterols, and then I lol-sterol.

2:18PM

Easy Vegan Sausage Chili and Sarson Ka Saag Pizzas

So I snagged the Emeril deep-dish pizza crust recipe, subbed out semolina flour for half corn meal and whole wheat flour, and made the 12" recipe on a 14" pan (you get roughly the style of pizza I gre up with in Youngstown except that it has a nice bit of crunch (typically our doughs didn't have anything along the lines of coarse flour or corn meal at all, I like the addition).

Friday while at work, I had decided to set out and build some junk food pizzas. I saw some post extolling the virtues of Daiya, and bored with it and Daiya, I thought to myself I might as well plop down some money on a hefty hand of constipation and sodium and knock out some junk food pizza.

With the exception of the Daiya, I didn't particularly junkify the pizzas. In that respect, I failed. I even had too much fiber in the foods for the Daiya to do its nasty gastrointestinal dance. (Man, I hate Daiya. Not like, for real. I just don't like talking about it. Or hearing about it actually.)

So basically, the dough recipe yields two 14" shells of a nice thickness (not deep dish, but thick crust). I sauteed a large white onion, added four cloves of chopped garlic, and mixed half with a can of refried beans and the remainder of some chili paste I had made fresh. The other half I incorporated into a butter bean paste that I smoothed out with a smidge of lemon juice and some olive oil. Butter beans are nice as they can be processed into a thick, creamy sauce similar to silken tofu but a bit more hearty and more taste neutral. Additionally I toasted some spices and made a quick curry and added that to the puree. So those are the two sauce-bases.

Next up was braising some sliced garnet yams in my cast iron skillet with a few of the onion and a dose of the curry. Once the water had steamed off and everything was nice and softened, I tossed it in a pyrex and then the fridge once cool. I fried up the gimme lean breakfast sausage chub in rounds until they were nice and firm. Took them off and dried excess oil off with paper towels. Cut them into bite size chunks. Those are the two toppings.

I wanted a middle ground between the base and the toppings, a sauce-topping if you will. I took the easy road on that one; a can of vegetarian (vegan) chili (the shame) and a can of Sarson Ka Saag (green curry saag made with spinach and mustard greens). I did little in the way of seasoning either; added cumin to the chili and nada to the saag (there was plenty of curry between the puree and the potatoes).

I made the saag pizza first. I like using my 9" cast iron for deep-dish, but this was just thick crust so I used my 14-Inch Pizza Pan. First I grease the pan with Crisco; hey, it's how I learned and it adds an awesome crunch to the crust. Basically the dough, once risen, you cut in two and pan. (I set aside the other half of the dough in the saran wrap that was used to cover it while it rose on top of the oven to see if some more light heat would help it rise a smidge more.) On top of the shell you spread the beans, (mix in a bowl to improve flow and then) pour on the can of saag, and drop by hand the potatoes. Sprinkle on some mozzarella daiya. Bake at 375'-400'F until the dough smells yeasty and has browned nicely.

Same deal basically for the chili pizza. This time though I had actually decided against the separate bean base and sauce-topping layers and mixed the refried pinto beans with the chili directly. I made a chili with refried beans previously and liked it so it seemed like a safe bet (it's the chili that won me a girlfriend, in a way). Also, I added a can of diced tomatoes to up the acidity. So to get the chili to cook down, and the spices and refried beans to incorporate, I heated it up in a pot until it was at a pretty thick consistency. So you just put a few ladles of the chili on top of your next shell, top with the crumbled/chunked sausage, and hit it with an extra solid dose of daiya.

I am going to need to continue testing deep-dish pizza dough recipes. I got some semolina flour, and am hoping to get a new pan soon that is about two inches high. Look forward to more pizzas and formats.

Man, next up for my junk food explosion, I am hoping to do a new variant on my mac and cheese that hinges on shiitake, artichoke heart, and sun-dried tomatoes. Stay tuned. Let's see how long it takes a vegan to need bypass surgery. (And with all that Daiya, I don't think it's going to be a cardiovascular one!)

1:21PM

yes, i ate that

 ...and i will again. pizza cooking time tonight. I've got 25 pounds of organic, all-purpose flour waiting for me at the CCM and am going to make the hell out of some food.

Pizza #1: creamed spinach and shallots and walnuts?

3:26PM

My Little Abomination: Los Luciernaga Pizza

MERRY CHRISTMAS.

Anyway;

Sunday my mind hatched an evil scheme. I bided my time, and executed it Monday night.

  • For anyone who knows me or has been following nomfg for a minute, it comes as no surprise to hear me profess my adoration of the Jolly Pumpkin brewery. From their beautiful packaging, to the pour and the sniff and the taste and the swallow, each one of their beers is a call from the ethereal beyond.
  • For anyone who knows me or has been following nomfg for a minute, it also comes as no surprise that I can't drink anymore. I'm not the best when it comes to being able to drink responsibly and deal with life; my proclivity for emotional self-medicating is quite effective.

So how does beer and not drinking make for do-no-goodery?

Los Luciernaga Pizza: Beer dough crust made with Luciernaga, with a Carrot-Cardamom flavored Parsnip Puree, topped with Carmelized Shallots & Bosc Pears, and dressed with a Roasted Garlic Luciernaga Glaze

Well;

We went down to Columbus' arena district to get some vegan lunch, but the special at the place was pulled (and has subsequently been added back, indefinitely; grats!). So we scampered over to North Market. I'm a fan of the place; no devotee to be sure, but who doesn't love a good bazaar? Anyway after a Brezel and a few samples of Cajohn's hot sauces (that Vicious Viper is aawwwesome), I headed in to Barrel & Bottle where the Braiden works to check it out. I have a habit of assessing stores by the shelf space afforded Jolly Pumpkin. I'm not sure why, I guess as some mark of familiarity.

They had a few, including one of my favorite go-to's;

Luciernaga

"The Firefly"

An artisan pale ale brewed in the Grand Cru tradition. Enjoy its golden effervescence and gentle hop aroma. Coriander and Grains of Paradise round out the spicy palate, melting o so softly into a silken finish of hoppiness and bliss! Make any season a celebration!

(yum)

It came to me in the middle of some conversation. I don't quite recall about what, but it hit me like a ton of bricks. The rest of Sunday was dedicated to figuring out how to bring this sin to manifest.

Beer Dough. It is a dirty, dirty trick. And I love it. Normally I use malty lagers and Mexican beers, or whatever I am unafraid of wasting. Instead of water and yeast being used to wet and bind up the flour for the dough, you just use flat beer and ground salt. Easy peasy.

But what happens when you take an uber unflat beer whose directions indicate that you should pour like champagne? Well for one, you get a dried out crust. The excessive air really doesn't to the dough any favors. So let it go flat, but don't skip out on the foam collar in pouring. Flatten it (8-12 ounces worth) but be sure to pour correctly to unlock the beer.

So once you've poured a beer to use in the dough, here's where we go from there; 

  • Pre-heat oven to 400'f; Cut the top off a bulb of garlic, peel away papery skin, place in tight fitting oven-proof container and douse with olive oil, cover container with foil and pop in oven for ~30 minutes until cloves are delicate and easy to smoosh
  • Peel and trim 10 parsnips and 1-2 carrots, cut into 1-2" segments and place in a pot, cover with water and simmer until they are soft (15-20 minutes); pour off all but 1/2 cup of water, continue simmering until garlic is done (don't turn off oven)
  • Remove parsnips and 1 carrot from pot, put in food processor with three cloves of the roasted garlic, 1/2-1 teaspoon ground cardamom, black pepper, ginger
  • Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon miso paste or other vegan soup base to simmering stock from parsnips, bring to a boil and give a go until it has some kind of yummy flavor
  • Add 2-4 tablespoons butter and the simmered stock to the food processor and puree everything
  • Halve and thinly slice two shallots. Core and thinly slice 1 bosc pear. In a cast iron skillet, start sauteeing shallots in oil (from roasted garlic = yum) until translucent, Add a pinch of cardamom, add three cloves roasted garlic and mash and stir, then add sliced pears. Toss pears until they start to soften, then pop in the oven covered with foil to continue softening.
  • Time for dough; sift together 4 cups flour with 1/2 teaspoon each salt and baking powder, drop in stand mixer and turn to low with bread hook. Take flat beer (put in a pouring container if it isn't in one already), pour it slowly into the flour and let it all come together (recipe works easily by hand too; just mix with your hand while pouring).
  • You should have some kind of a dough ball; you can break it up into halves or thirds, either way roll out what you've got to a nice flat shell. Rub both sides with olive oil (extra points for herbs), sprinkle corn meal on what will be the bottom and flip so that side is down.
  • [Working on a  peel with parchment is a tidy option; if so, preheat oven to 450 with pizza stone inside]
  • Remove pears and shallots and goodness from oven and transfer the big bits to a bowl but reserve as much liquid as possible. Continue with heating the liquid goopiness on the range. Once you start to get nice little bubbles, pour on some of that Luciernaga, first the flat stuff. Let it bubble down and reduce. Add a hit of flour too and work it in for a thicker sauce. Stir frequently while dressing pizza. Be sure to use a flexible spatula to scrape the bits from the bottom.
  • Spread puree over dough shell. Top with the pears and shallots (toasted walnuts or pecans would have done well at this point too).
  • Once pizza is dressed you are going to home stretch that sauce or glaze or reduction, whatever you call what you make, you're going to hit it with a nice final splash of the Luciernaga and make sure it isn't to liquid-y (you want a glaze at minimum). Then transfer to a pourable container and dress the top of the pizza.
  • Bake until done. (You should be able to put a spatula under the dough and spin it without it sticking, toppings should be browned slightly.)

The pizza has a lovely peppery sweet taste that at once lulls and spices. Changes I would make? Make sure beer is more flat than it was this time around; the beer itself has an incredibly collar not to be ignored, but that must be compensated for.

Making beer dough yesterday I poured the beer out into the standmixer and set it to low for about ten minutes then let it sit for about an hour. This time I was using a stout (Shell's Stout, from a brewery in New Ulm MN); it fell flat in a magnificent way. Lesson learned. 

Additional changes/adjustments? I used a bit too much cardamom. It was basically a new spice to me so I went a bit overboard and assumed that it would disipate or distribute more evenly than it did. Tasty and over the top? Yes. Ready to tame, maybe toast while glazing the pears? Peut-être.

Anyway, a sixteen dollar bottle of beer, with only 7 ounces drunk by mouth from a glass and the rest consumed in the cooking process; it may sound a bit sinful. Or maybe it sounds like a waste of beer without the gluttony. Either way, I will say it was a great pizza and the parsnip puree cardamom candied pear combo was wth the effort alone.